UPDATE: There was a problem with the download link when I originally posted this. It should be correct now.
Microsoft Expression Web Designer CTP1 is now available for free download. It's very nice; it's got great CSS and code support, and the best ASP.NET rendering around. It's not great for the kind of person who wants to create VB or C# classes, since it's a design and HTML coding tool, but you can certainly design a pretty website with it and then make it work in Visual Studio, or take an ugly website from Visual Studio and make it pretty in EWD.
EWD even features some of my own artwork. That's right; I drew this beautiful button used in the EWD design surface, which just happens to be nearly identical to the Office SharePoint Designer editing surface:
Oh, the glamorous life of a Microsoft developer.